Chamonix, France (aka Chamonix-Mont-Blanc) is one of the top ski destinations in the Alps. There are a number of reasons for this, which include the ease of logistics in order to arrive and it being one of the largest and oldest ski towns in France. It sits near the junction of France, Switzerland, and Italy, so there are lots of options when it comes to skiing. Mont-Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps, towers over the valley standing at 4,808 m above sea level.

How to get there?

In order to arrive in Chamonix, you can either fly or train. We flew from London to Geneva and then rented a car to arrive at the mountain. If you don’t feel like driving, there are a number of other ways you can get from the mountain. You can arrange for a private transfer or a pre-booked transfer van. Note that van can take a bit longer because you don’t know in which order you will be dropped off.

Where to stay?

Ski Chalet

I would recommend renting a chalet with some friends if possible. You can get some really nice spaces for a decent price. You may need to look in the towns around Chamonix to get a better price, but if you are renting a car this is very doable.  

We opted to stay in Les Houches, which is only 15min driving from the main town of Chamonix. Les Houches is a sleepier mountain in comparison to Brévent / Le Flégère (which sits just above the main town of Chamonix). It is known to be a bit more family friendly. We really enjoyed our time here because of the limited crowds and wide-open runs.

Note that we visited prior to Half-Term holidays for students in either the UK or France. This is really important because if you end up there during Half-Term, it can be very busy everywhere, despite whichever mountain you visit. If you have the option, I’d aim for a different week outside of Half-Term.

Les Houches didn’t seem to be as known for its après ski, but there was a really cool little bar at the bottom of the Bellevue cable car called Kitsch Inn. The place was very animated with live music and full of other patrons – both visitors and locals. Definitely a great spot to end your day of skiing in Les Houches!

What to do?

Skiing and other snow sports are definitely the top activities in this area if you are here in the winter. If you come in the summer, there are some amazing hiking trails around the Mont-Blanc region.

If you are a skier, have a look at the ski resorts in the Chamonix area before going to help you decide which lift pass you should buy. Since we were only there for three full days of skiing, we opted to pay for one day pass at Les Houches (€45/day for an adult) and then two days at Brévent / Le Flégère (€55/day for an adult). If you are there for an entire week, have a look at the Mont Blanc Unlimited Pass, which gives you access to 10 different ski areas (€67/day for an adult).

Brévent / Le Flégère is right in the heart of the main town in the Chamonix area. There is a nice parking deck at the bottom of the Brévent lift where you can park for €2/hour. Again, this is much easier if you have rented a car.

I would recommend sticking to either the Brévent or Le Flégère for most of your day. It can take a bit of time to cross between then with the cable car that connects the two mountains.

I like both mountains, but I think I preferred Brévent slightly more than Le Flégère due to a slight difference in the conditions. Additionally, if you take the two cable cars to get to the peak of Brévent, you can have an amazing ride down on a black trail from the top of the mountain.

Note that you should be a relatively advanced skier before going down this run. The trail is a bit tight at the top of the mountain, but then opens up as you go down. It is really a must though if the conditions are right.

Apres Ski on the Mountain

At the end of the day, you can stop by Brev Bar at the top of the Planpraz cable car for some apres. You won’t be the only one with this idea, but it is a great spot to hang out and meet back up with your friends that you may have lost throughout the day for a pint. If the sun is shining, this is a must. Don’t be scared of the line that will start building up to get back down the cable car once the sun goes down. You will get down eventually, so just enjoy the views!

Where to eat?

It is very common in Alpine skiing to have either self-catered or catered chalets. Catered can be between €30 – €40 per adult per meal, so we opted for a self-catered because we thought it would be a bit of a better deal.  If, however, you are looking for a dinner or nice lunch on the mountain – I’d recommend the two places below.

Le Delice

This is a quaint little restaurant in the heart of Les Houches. It has quite an eclective slection of foods, but everyting we tasted was amazing.  The owners are also very accommodating for large groups, but make sure that you pre-book for the exact number in your party. I really enjoyed the house wine there. The best part about visiting France is that you really can’t go wrong with your wine selection.  It is cheap and delicious.

Le Panoramic du Brevent

Le Panoramic du Brevent is the main restaurant at the peak of the Brevent cable car. Make sure to call ahead and request a table outside if the weather is nice. Although you may still have to wait once you arrive because the owners are not trying to rush you out. This is a part of the experience though, so just relax, have a glass of wine and just take in the view while you wait. My favorite thing about this place was the burger. It honestly is one of the best burgers I have had, and I am not a burger person typically. Also, with all the activity you will be doing throughout the day – you deserve to have a delicious burger.

Other activities

• Paragliding
  • If you are brave enough and the weather is good, this looks like it happens pretty much year round. As we were skiing down the mountain at Brevent, we would literally see people running off of the mountain before they catch their wind.
• Apres Ski
  • La Folie Douce Hotels Chamonix – This isn’t like other La Folie Douce bars that I have visited for apres ski, but nonetheless it still has a HUGE outdoor area with amazing views if the mountains that definitely makes it worth the visit.
• Shopping
  • In the town of Chamonix, the wine and cheese shops are second to none. Definitely worth exploring them if you have the chance.
• Hiking